Here at Michael Andrews Bespoke, we have full-time stylists to help you design custom garments that are most appropriate and most flattering for you—your body type, skin color, occupation, lifestyle, etc.
While we offer one-on-one personalized styling advice to each of our clients, we thought we'd share a little taste of that knowledge in a series of blog posts titled "Styling Your Body Type." Here we will share tips on how to maximize your custom clothing experience by wearing clothes that best suit your body type.
In this edition, some styling tips for shorter guys (approximately 5'7" and under):
1. A shorter inseam creates a longer leg line
Have your pants hemmed with little-to-no break. A shorter pant creates a longer leg line and make you look like you are not wearing your big brothers hand-me-downs.
2. A shorter jacket also creates a longer leg line
With your arms straight down by your sides, you should be able to cup your fingers all the way up into your hand, and your finger tips should not touch the jacket. A shorter jacket will make you look taller.
3. A narrow trouser is lengthening...
...And looks best with a shorter inseam.
4. Go one-button
A one-button jacket creates a lower button stance (which is lengthening) and looks better proportionally on smaller guys. You never use that second (or third) button anyway!
5. Slim Ties
All things in proportion—ties included. On a smaller frame, narrower ties look more in tune and make more sense. Don't go skinny, just narrow — 2 3/4" is an ideal width.
6. Three sleeve buttons instead of four
You want your sleeve buttons to hit you at the same spot on the forearm. If you have shorter arms, go with three buttons on the sleeves instead of four. Or you can make the four buttons "overlapping" to save space.
7. Slim lapels...
...Are more flattering on a small frame. Just don't go any narrower than 2 1/2" — they can begin to look slightly too trendy.
8. Peak lapel helps elongate your physique
They draw the eyes upward, so that those around you will focus their gaze toward your chest, shoulders, and face. For less dramatic effect, go semi-peak.
9. Proportional pocket flaps
The beauty of custom made is that we can change any detail to suit your personalized needs and preferences. Have your jacket pocket flaps slimmed-down just like your lapels and ties.
10. Slanted pockets
Slanted pockets offer greater visual verticality, again helping lengthen your look.
11. Shorter Collars
A shorter guy usually has a smaller neck, and a smaller neck looks best with a shorter collar. You don't need a big collar hitting halfway up your chin and choking you.
12. One button cuffs or narrow french cuffs
A one-button cuff is shorter than a two-button cuff, and therefore is more proportionally appropriate on smaller guys. We can also make slim, narrow, and short french cuffs — no more having to deal with all that excess fabric at the wrist.
13. Pattern it up
When it comes to suits and shirts, stripes are lengthening and checks are widening. Chances are you can benefit from both—not too mention they can both help facilitate a more visually interesting and stylish look.
14. Dark colors are slimming (and lengthening)
May we suggest a midnight navy or charcoal grey suit.
15. Narrow shoe
A smaller guy needs a smaller shoe. We're talking width here not length. Look for a sharp, slim, streamlined shoe to help further elongate your look.
16. Point collar
With a smaller neck, avoid spread collars. A straight or point collar—where the collar points are closer together—is more appropriate and, again, lengthening.
17. 4-in-hand
Same goes for tie knots — avoid fat Windsors and stick with slim four-in-hands.
18. Show some cuff
You should show at least a 1/2" of shirt cuff under your suit sleeves—this helps lengthen the arm (similar to how a narrow trouser with no break helps lengthen the leg).
19. Loose the belt
Go with metal side adjusters, button side adjusters, a single rear side adjuster, or a plain waistband. Your pants are custom made, so trust us, you don't need belt loops. A belt-less look is cooler, younger, and more importantly, lengthening and slimming.
20. Avoid over-sized watches
Chances are, your wrist isn't huge — so your watch shouldn't be either. Look for something classic, no bigger than 35mm face.
21. You have the advantage!
Smaller guys have the advantage — because the fabric comes in smaller "doses," it is easier for you to pull-off bold(er) colors, strong(er) patterns, interesting textures, etc. For example, don't be afraid to try a brown suit or plaid shirt.
This is just a taste of the personalized styling advice offered by our in-house stylists as part of our service. Hope this helps!
All the best,
The MAB Team
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