The Michael Andrews Bespoke Blog

Styling Your Body Type: 21 Tips for Short(er) Guys

2011-01-25T15:39:00.000-05:00

Here at Michael Andrews Bespoke, we have full-time stylists to help you design custom garments that are most appropriate and most flattering for you—your body type, skin color, occupation, lifestyle, etc.

While we offer one-on-one personalized styling advice to each of our clients, we thought we'd share a little taste of that knowledge in a series of blog posts titled "Styling Your Body Type." Here we will share tips on how to maximize your custom clothing experience by wearing clothes that best suit your body type.

In this edition, some styling tips for shorter guys (approximately 5'7" and under):

1. A shorter inseam creates a longer leg line
Have your pants hemmed with little-to-no break. A shorter pant creates a longer leg line and make you look like you are not wearing your big brothers hand-me-downs.

2. A shorter jacket also creates a longer leg line
With your arms straight down by your sides, you should be able to cup your fingers all the way up into your hand, and your finger tips should not touch the jacket. A shorter jacket will make you look taller.

3. A narrow trouser is lengthening...
...And looks best with a shorter inseam.

4. Go one-button
A one-button jacket creates a lower button stance (which is lengthening) and looks better proportionally on smaller guys. You never use that second (or third) button anyway!

5. Slim Ties
All things in proportion—ties included. On a smaller frame, narrower ties look more in tune and make more sense. Don't go skinny, just narrow — 2 3/4" is an ideal width.

6. Three sleeve buttons instead of four
You want your sleeve buttons to hit you at the same spot on the forearm. If you have shorter arms, go with three buttons on the sleeves instead of four. Or you can make the four buttons "overlapping" to save space.

7. Slim lapels...
...Are more flattering on a small frame. Just don't go any narrower than 2 1/2" — they can begin to look slightly too trendy.

8. Peak lapel helps elongate your physique
They draw the eyes upward, so that those around you will focus their gaze toward your chest, shoulders, and face. For less dramatic effect, go semi-peak.

9. Proportional pocket flaps
The beauty of custom made is that we can change any detail to suit your personalized needs and preferences. Have your jacket pocket flaps slimmed-down just like your lapels and ties.

10. Slanted pockets
Slanted pockets offer greater visual verticality, again helping lengthen your look.

11. Shorter Collars
A shorter guy usually has a smaller neck, and a smaller neck looks best with a shorter collar. You don't need a big collar hitting halfway up your chin and choking you.

12. One button cuffs or narrow french cuffs
A one-button cuff is shorter than a two-button cuff, and therefore is more proportionally appropriate on smaller guys. We can also make slim, narrow, and short french cuffs — no more having to deal with all that excess fabric at the wrist.

13. Pattern it up
When it comes to suits and shirts, stripes are lengthening and checks are widening. Chances are you can benefit from both—not too mention they can both help facilitate a more visually interesting and stylish look.

14. Dark colors are slimming (and lengthening)
May we suggest a midnight navy or charcoal grey suit.

15. Narrow shoe
A smaller guy needs a smaller shoe. We're talking width here not length. Look for a sharp, slim, streamlined shoe to help further elongate your look.

16. Point collar
With a smaller neck, avoid spread collars. A straight or point collar—where the collar points are closer together—is more appropriate and, again, lengthening.

17. 4-in-hand
Same goes for tie knots — avoid fat Windsors and stick with slim four-in-hands.

18. Show some cuff
You should show at least a 1/2" of shirt cuff under your suit sleeves—this helps lengthen the arm (similar to how a narrow trouser with no break helps lengthen the leg).

19. Loose the belt
Go with metal side adjusters, button side adjusters, a single rear side adjuster, or a plain waistband. Your pants are custom made, so trust us, you don't need belt loops. A belt-less look is cooler, younger, and more importantly, lengthening and slimming.

20. Avoid over-sized watches
Chances are, your wrist isn't huge — so your watch shouldn't be either. Look for something classic, no bigger than 35mm face.

21. You have the advantage!
Smaller guys have the advantage — because the fabric comes in smaller "doses," it is easier for you to pull-off bold(er) colors, strong(er) patterns, interesting textures, etc. For example, don't be afraid to try a brown suit or plaid shirt.

This is just a taste of the personalized styling advice offered by our in-house stylists as part of our service. Hope this helps!

All the best,
The MAB Team

The Michael Andrews Experience, Part III: 2nd Fitting

2011-01-19T14:01:00.000-05:00

This third edition of "The Michael Andrews Experience" is a step-by-step breakdown of the process for a new or returning client coming in for a second fitting of their new custom clothing (whether it's custom suits, shirts, sport coats, trousers, overcoats, etc.).

Step 1 - Receiving notification of complete alterations

Approximately 1-2 weeks after your first fitting, we will send you email notification that your alterations are complete and your new garments are ready to be fit a second time. Simply reply to the notification e-mail or give us a call at 212.677.1755 to schedule an appointment to come in for your second fitting.

Step 2 - Come in, hang out, and get changed into your newly altered custom clothes!

You will be assigned one of our 4 full-size fitting rooms. Try on your the garments again so that Michael and our fit experts can have a second look. If Michael is measuring a client, enjoy a complimentary drink (or drinks) at the bar while you wait.

Step 3 - 2nd fitting

Generally, after one fitting, the garments should be ready to take home. For "harder to fit" clients, however, we sometimes require a second round of alterations. Michael, and the client of course, will determine whether this is necessary.

Step 4 - Changing and Packing up

Once Michael and his staff have taken a second look, your garments should be ready to take home. One of our staff members will pack up your new custom clothing in garment bags for you to take home.

Step 5 - Congrats and Enjoy!

If this is your first custom clothing purchase, congratulations! We are confident that you will enjoy your new garments and look forward to seeing you again soon!

If you have any questions, feel free to contact us by phone at 212-677-1755 or by email at mab@michaelandrewsbespoke.com.

We hope this series of posts has been helpful in clarifying the Michael Andrews shopping experience.

Hope to hear from you soon.

All the best,

The MAB Crew

The Michael Andrews Experience, Part II: 1st Fitting

2011-01-16T11:31:00.000-05:00

This second edition of "The Michael Andrews Experience" is a step-by-step breakdown of the process for a new or returning client coming in for a first fitting of their new custom clothing (whether it's custom suits, shirts, sport coats, trousers, overcoats, etc).

Step 1 - Receiving notification of garment arrival

Approximately 4-5 weeks after you placed your clothing order, your garments have arrived from the workshop—whether it is final product or a "personalized fit assessment garment"—and you will receive an email from us to schedule an appointment to come in for a first fitting (and maybe another drink).

Step 2 - Contacting us to schedule a fitting

Reply to the notification email, or give us a call at 212-677-1755 to schedule an appointment to come in and try-on your new clothes at your earliest convenience.

Step 3 - Welcome back, can we offer you a drink?

Nice to see you again. Take a seat in our comfortable living room and/or grab a seat at the bar as we set up your fitting room.

Step 4 - Get changed into your new custom clothes!

You will be assigned one of our 4 full-size fitting rooms. Try-on your new garments one at a time so that Michael and our fit experts can have a look.

Step 5 - First fitting

Since our garments are all handmade, just about every piece that comes through are shop requires at least one minor alteration. This is what separates us from the competition. Michael and his staff are obsessed with a proper fit—there is no alteration too small as we strive to make your suit fit as close to perfect as possible.

Step 6 - Changing and Settling up

Once Michael and his staff have chalked & pinned your new garments for alterations, it's time to change back into your street clothes and settle-up on the remaining 50% balance from your order. We have your credit card on file from your initial appointment, if you would like to use the same one.

Step 7 - Alterations

All of our alterations are done in-house. We have four full-time master tailors to help ensure the proper fit in a timely manner. Typical first time alterations take about a week and a half (10 days) to complete.

Step 8 - Notification of complete alterations; schedule a second fitting

Once your alterations are complete, we will email you to schedule a second fitting. We typically only need to see you one more time and your new custom garments are all yours to take home and enjoy.

We hope this series of posts has been helpful in clarifying the Michael Andrews shopping experience.

If you have any further questions, feel free to contact us by phone at 212-677-1755 or by email at mab@michaelandrewsbespoke.com.

Hope to hear from you soon.

All the best,

The MAB Crew

The Michael Andrews Experience, PART I: New Client, New Order

2011-01-11T14:09:00.002-05:00

For those who are unfamiliar with the custom clothing experience offered at Michael Andrews Bespoke, we have written a series of blog posts to serve as a step-by-step breakdown of the process, from initial appointment to merchandise delivery. The series is called "The Michael Andrews Experience."

This first post edition is a step-by-step breakdown of the process for a new client placing a new order with us (whether it's for custom suits, shirts, sport coats, trousers, overcoats, etc).

Step 1 - Make an appointment
We are by appointment only. To book a time on our schedule give us a call at 212-677-1755 or shoot us an email at mab@michaelandrewsbespoke.

The average first-time appointment takes about an hour, so block out a piece of your schedule accordingly. As always, there is no minimum order and we offer free, no pressure consultations. If you have questions, we are here to answer them.

Appointment Hours:
Monday and Tuesday: Closed
Wednesday - Friday: 2pm-8pm
Saturday: 12pm-7pm
Sunday: 12pm-5pm

Step 2 - Locate the shop
This step isn't as easy as it sounds! Our new 4,200 sq ft. design studio is purposely tucked away in Great Jones Alley. The alley is located off of Great Jones Street (also known as 3rd Street) between Broadway and Lafayette. It's easy to spot our black staircase from the Great Jones street.

Step 3 - Welcome, make yourself at home
Michael started this business by making suits for his close friends. As we grew, that intimate service remained a fundamental part of what we do. Every client who walks through our front door is treated as a friend. Once you are acquainted with the shop, you can take a seat on our custom suit-fabric-upholstered furniture, browse our look book for design inspiration, and fill out some brief information for our records.

Step 4 - Can we offer you a drink?
Did we mention that our studio is equipped with a 12-foot vintage bar stocked with over 100 spirits, plus beer, wine, soda, coffee and tea? Sit back and relax with the drink of your choice - all complimentary of course.

Step 5 - Consult with our designers to style the right garment for you
Some of our clients know exactly what they are looking for—others have no idea what would work best for them. This is where we come in. One of our stylists will sit with you to help you figure out exactly what colors, fabrics, details, and fit preferences best suit your individual needs. If you have a picture of a garment or a look that you would like to replicate (from a magazine, for example), feel free to bring it in—this only helps makes the design process easier.

Choose from thousands of fabrics, hundreds of linings, dozens of lapel/collar/cuff styles, pocket styles, button colors, etc. Our stylists will help walk you through the process and can offer advice if needed.

Step 6 - Get measured
For a new client, Michael personally takes more than three dozen measurements (including posture, body shape, and shoulder slope analysis—each of which cannot be altered with off-the-rack garments).

Michael and his team will then perform a fit diagnosis using one of our MAB "pattern assessment garments." For every garment we manufacture, a fully bespoke pattern is made for the specific client's body, hence measuring and fitting become a fundamental step to the shopping experience (and final product) here at MAB.

Although we are known for our contemporary, slim (not skinny!) aesthetic (as you would see on the models in GQ, Esquire, etc), we can make garments to fit any preference. We can also replicate your favorite garments if you bring them with you to your appointment.

Step 7 - Confirm timeline
We're all unique, and the truth is that some body types are easier to fit than others.

For new clients who are slightly more "difficult to fit" (anything from big pecs, to a large stomach, to prominent shoulder blades), we often manufacture a "personalized fit assessment garment." This garment is cut to the client's individual pattern, but manufactured in a scrap fabric in order to double-check the measuring/fitting process before the actual (and more expensive) fabric is cut and sewn. This will ensure a proper fit, and there is no additional charge, although it does add one additional appointment to your schedule and 3-4 extra weeks to the delivery time.

For new clients who are "easier to fit," this extra fit assessment garment is unnecessary, and we will proceed directly to manufacturing the final product.

Keep in mind that the measuring process, as well as the fitting of a "personalized fit assessment garment," only needs to be done one time. Once your pattern is perfected, it is saved in our records, making future orders a breeze.

Step 9 - Finalizing
Once Michael is finished measuring/fitting, you are all set. We will walk you through your new invoice (of which a 50% deposit is due), hand you one of our business cards along with an MAB brochure with styling tips and clothing care instructions, and you are free to explore our awesome neighbourhood (check our other blog posts on neighborhood recommendations).

Step 10 - Notification of garment arrival
Approximately 4-5 weeks later, once your garments arrive from the workshop—whether it is final product or a "personalized fit assessment garment"—we will e-mail you to schedule an appointment to come in for an initial fitting (and maybe another drink).

DONE!

Coming back? No need to measure!
For returning clients, we already have your measurements on file (unless you've gained or lost 10+ pounds) so there is no need to measure. Book an appointment, grab a drink, and sit with our stylist to choose your fabrics and design your new garments.

We hope this series of posts will be helpful in clarifying the Michael Andrews shopping experience.

If you have any further questions, feel free to contact us by phone at 212-677-1755 or by email at mab@michaelandrewsbespoke.com.

Hope to hear from you soon.

All the best,
The MAB Crew

How to Tie a Bowtie

2011-01-07T16:39:00.000-05:00

More and more men are re-embracing bowties for both formal and casual wear. While bowties have always been appropriate with a tuxedo, they are also a great way to add a splash of "dandy" to other outfits without looking over-the-top.

If you've been thinking about trying one, you'll need to know how to tie it (clip-ons are never a good idea), so here is a brief tutorial on tying a bowtie. Also, if you are wondering how to pull it off casually, or would like some tips/ideas on putting an outfit together, visit us in the shop and chat with one of our stylists. That's what we're here for.

Step 1
With your shirt buttoned all-the-way up, place the bow tie under the collar around your neck, situating it so that the end on your left side (let's call it end "A") is about two inches longer than end "B".

Step 2
Cross end "A" over end "B" in the middle of your shirt.

Step 3
Bring end "A" up and around end "B" - and pull the two sides tightly (like the first part of tying your shoes).

Step 4
Fold end "B" in half over itself to form the first side of the bow, and hold it folded in your hand.

Step 5
Loop end "A" over the center of the bow you just formed out of "B".

Step 6
This is the tricky part!
Hold the bow you created out of "B" and the skinny part of "A" that is laying over it in the same hand. Now you should notice that there is a "hole" formed near the neck between the skinny part of "A" and the folded "B". Once you've identified this hole, fold side "A" similarly to how you you folded "B" in Step 4 and slide this through the hole - folded section first. Make sure not to let "A" go all the way through the hole - the tail (widest part) should stay poking out facing the way that it came from.

Step 7
Now, pull the folded section of "A" with your right hand as you simultaneously pull the folded section of "B" to tighten the bow. Make sure the tails don't slip all the way out! Alternate from pulling both folded edges to pulling both tails until the bow is tight, the ends are even and the knot looks straight. (Tip - it doesn't have to be super tight, in fact, it often looks better when the center knot isn't overly stretched).

Hope this helps and inspires you to try wearing a bowtie!

Thanks for reading.

All the best,

MAB

Style Icon - Cary Grant

2011-01-03T14:56:00.000-05:00

From time to time, as a new segment on our blog, we will be featuring some of the "Style Icons" that inspire us.

This feature can spotlight anyone from an elegant movie star, to an athlete with a uniquely fashionable demeanor, to one of our many stylish clients with a subtle flair for the dramatic.

Today we highlight English-American actor Cary Grant (1904-1986) who is regularly considered one of the greatest male movie stars of all time.

"Cary Grant managed to give great performances in comedies, thrillers, and romances and at all times he appeared cool and imaculate. He had an easy manner, his ready wit and charm complemented by his ability to wear clothes effortlessly. Grant always looked relaxed in his stylish outfits" - Giorgio Armani

Above: flannel chalkstripe suit with wide peak lapels. Staple white shirt and solid tie.

Above: grey flannel narrow-stripe suit, paired with a grey V-neck sweater, white shirt, and pencil stripe tie. Let's not forget the pipe and the brown shades nicely tucked into the breast pocket.

Above: keeping it simple. When your clothing fits properly, subtlety goes a long way. Dark flannel suit, white shirt, solid tie and white pocket square. And how about them specs? Ironically, these are the same black frames that can be seen today in just about any modern fashion/style magazine.

Above: the timeless tuxedo. Someone with great style, in our opinion, remains classic and timeless. The best part about this picture is that it, from a purely stylistuc perspective, it could have been taken anytime between 1950-2010. A peak lapel, one button tuxedo with white french cuff shirt, simple studs & cufflinks, black bowtie, and simple black loafers = forever chic.

Thanks for reading, more features on inspiring "Style Icons" coming soon.

All the best,

The MAB Crew

From the Bookshelf: One Hundred Years of Menswear

2010-12-27T14:01:00.001-05:00

Here in the studio we've received a number of noteworthy coffee table books from clients as "Congrats on the new space!" gifts. I was just flipping through one of my favorites, "One Hundred Years of Menswear," an inspiring and educational tour of men's style and fashion over the past century.

Product Description (from Amazon.com):

A rich, comprehensive collection of images covering the revolution in menswear over the last 100 years with text by fashion historian Cally Blackman.

Rare photography and illustrations reveal the elegant tailoring of Savile Row and tough khaki and denim of the uniform and workplace giving way to an exuberant array of styles and colors as the century progresses. Packed with images of Hollywood style icons, the artist personalities of the 1930s, and more, the evolution of menswear from practical to peacock is explored in an array of rarely seen photographs and illustrations.

The impact of Pierre Cardin, Giorgio Armani, Ralph Lauren, and other designers is contrasted with the street fashion of the 1960s, punk, and the club scene to bring together the story of the flourishing menswear market in one invaluable book.

About the Author (from Amazon.com):

Cally Blackman is a writer and lecturer with degrees in Fashion Design and History of Art, and an MA in History of Dress from the Courtauld Institute of Art, London. She teaches on the BA Fashion History and Theory course at Central Saint Martins College. Her previous publications include 100 Years of Fashion Illustration (Laurence King) 2007), Costume: From 1500 to the Present Day (2003), and The 20s and 30s:

Thanks for reading, and from everyone here at MAB, happy New Year!

Cheers,
The MAB Crew

Favorite Fall/Winter Fabrics

2010-12-23T21:24:00.000-05:00

It's our favorite time of year: LAYERS SEASON. It's when those of us with a passion for quality clothing begin looking forward to layers of tweeds, flannels and cashmeres.

Here are some of our favorite fabrics from Fall 2010, stuff to keep in mind now that the winter season is most definitely upon us, with temperatures rarely climbing above the freezing mark. Keep these fabrics in mind when thinking about how to dress for colder weather—whether it be overcoats, suits, blazers, vests, or trousers.

Grey/Brown Flannel Glen Plaid Medium Grey Wool Donegal

Brown Herringbone Tweed Medium Grey Herringbone Tweed

Light Grey Flannel Midnight Navy Velvet

Navy Cashmere Navy Corduroy (Medium Wale)

Tan Corduroy (Fine Wale) Light Grey Wool/Cashmere

More on MAB WINTER pieces, including product and client pictures, coming soon. Stay tuned.

Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays,

The MAB Crew

Garment Care Instructions, Part I: Suits

2010-12-19T19:49:00.000-05:00

To maximize the life of your suits, we recommend the following:

Restaurant: Acme

2010-12-04T14:50:00.000-05:00

It seems like daily we have a client ask us for food recommendations in the area. So, we are proud to announce the blog's new 'Our Neighborhood' section. Here you can find reviews on restaurants we personally love that are in walking distance of Great Jones Alley. First up: ACME.

Just a couple doors down from our alley you'll stumble upon Acme Bar & Grill. This is a great Louisiana- themed restaurant. Having family from Louisiana, I can't attest to its authenticity but it does have some good food. The burgers are tasty as well as the cornbread. With good drink specials you can stop and get another drink after you've stopped by our bar. We recommend Acme for any and all who are looking for a Southern food fix.

All the best,

The MAB Crew

From the Bookshelf: The Suit

2010-11-29T14:58:00.000-05:00

Nicholas Antongiavanni's book The Suit is a great guild to success with advice on how to dress with style because as Antongiavanni believes good style will project your elegance, as well as your bravado. This little book leaves nothing out, from double-breasted vs. single, two-buttons vs. three, English vs. Italian and plenty others. You, of course, can pick this book up on Amazon or browse through it as you wait for your appointment next time you're in to see us!

Justin Woodis' Birthday

2010-11-22T10:23:00.002-05:00

We were honored when Justin, a great client and friend of Michael Andrews, approached us about hosting his birthday party in our space. The event turned out great, with special spiked punch, a spontaneous order of pizza mid-party, and, last but not least, all of Justin's beautiful and loving friends.

MAB featured on Always a Blogsmaid

2010-09-27T15:17:00.002-04:00

We are excited to have a feature on Always a Bridesmaid today. Check out the article below and stay to snoop around for tips and advice on planning a wedding... they know what they're doing!

All the best,

The MAB Crew

MAB in Gilt MANual

2010-09-14T17:14:00.007-04:00

Gilt MANual is a daily guide to men's fashion and lifestyle. From clever how-tos to the latest street fashion trends, we really like what these guys are doing. MAB was recently mentioned in an article they posted about custom shirts.

Always appreciate some good press.

All the best,

The MAB Crew

Grand Opening Party

2010-09-13T19:07:00.006-04:00

Last week we celebrated the official opening of our new studio in Great Jones Alley. Thanks to everyone that attended, we had a great time!

Great Jones Alley, here we come

2010-08-30T14:41:00.004-04:00

Here a few images from the new space. Hope to see you here soon!

The New Studio!

2010-08-12T15:27:00.008-04:00

MAB has officially moved!!

While our new studio is still in it's final phase of construction, the space is really shaping up!

The new 4,200 sq ft space is four times the size of our prior residence at 20 Clinton - making us one of the largest custom clothiers in the country. It features 3 floors, 20-foot ceilings, sky lights, 2 flat-screen TVs, and an authentic vintage 12-foot wet bar - clients are already volunteering for bartending shifts!

And don't worry, we kept the "old boys club" mystique. You no longer have to walk through a gated basement, but being tucked-away in Great Jones Alley allows us all to speak a little easy.

Looking forward to showing you around. As always, drinks are on us.

Cheers,
The MAB Crew

Welcome to the MAB Blog

2010-08-09T15:09:00.000-04:00

Welcome to the official MAB Blog.

As MAB has grown and evolved, we decided to add a blog to our website - so our extended family can keep up with what's happening in the studio.

Stay tuned for updates, new fabrics, design ideas, funny stories about Michael and the team, and anything else MAB related.

Cheers,
The MAB Crew